Clun

Clun gathers you in. Surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills, the visitor arrives so gently, by gravity alone, at the bridge and the river. There is no better place to
interpret the town.

For nearly six hundred years the town has contented itself with this narrow crossing designed for the packhorse. This, despite the fact that Thomas Telford who built a thousand bridges was once the county surveyor. It cannot be an accident that he should overlook Clun. Due to his benign neglect, it has done more than survive. It is largely original, very rare in a bridge from 1450. Its narrow charm has kept the busy world at bay. One of Housman’s ‘quietest places under the sun’ begins here.

A 7th Century Metropolis

Back in the 7th century, Clun was expansion-minded. There were many more houses around the church than there are today. Trade had flourished for about 5,000 years, thanks to the Clun-Clee Ridgeway. So, if you were a Neolithic arms dealer, with a load of flint weapons for sale, you could keep your feet dry, at least till you reached the river. Later, flocks and herds driven from Wales to the English markets and even to London passed through Clun. Local shepherds selecting hardy, fertile sheep, created the Clun Forest breed, able to forage and fend for itself.

Bridge over whispering waters

In the corner of the car park the wooden bridge beckons, inviting access to the Castle. There has long been much worth defending here. Iron Age hill-forts, Offa’s Dyke and an imposing Norman castle still remain. Set in the meander of the river, the castle is, according to the county archaeologist, “one of the finest and most impressive castles of the Welsh Marches … the most striking feature is its huge late thirteenth century Great Tower …” And yet, when called to play its part in the Civil War, the castle was too ruinous to defend. Perhaps the good people of Clun had realized that power and unbridled economic growth don’t necessarily bring happiness?

May be that is why Clun is a town of tradition and tranquillity. Writers and artists have long found inspiration here. Sir Walter Scott visited the town whilst working on The Betrothed (1825). The fortress called the Garde Doleureuse was almost certainly inspired by Clun Castle. “Its ramparts washed by the river”, this beautiful backwater is the perfect setting for a picnic. You would not be the first. In preference to warlike preparations, the medieval owners built their pleasuance – pavilions, a formal garden and fishponds on the opposite bank of the river. Today the river is home to a large collection of ducks. There are many varieties and daily briefings on the ‘duckwatch’ board outside the post office keep you up to date with the latest births and sightings.

Leave the castle by the path at the side of the bowling green. Today, the clatter of woods against a jack replaces the sound of the cannonballs that once battered the castle walls. Space for the green was created by the 2nd Lord Clive when he pulled down the old courthouse in 1780. He used the material to build the Town Hall in the Square. Its ground floor was once an open jail where prisoners were chained before being taken away for trial. Later the arches were filled in and it became a market hall. It is now the Museum; an early example of green Clun’s enlightened re-cycling.

Havens of Peace and Quiet

The Hospital of the Holy and Undivided Trinity almshouse once housed “twelve old men of good character in a livery gown of blue emblazoned with a red and silver badge.” The adjoining Trinity Chapel still retains those twelve residents’ spaces but the old men and their blue liveries have long since made way for both men and women with their riotously colourful gardens.

St George’s churchyard is another refuge, part of the Caring for God’s Acre project. By the path is the grave of playwright, John Osborne who lived nearby. The lychgate has impeccable recycled credentials. During its 280 years, it has been taken down, erected elsewhere, returned to this spot and yet, has preserved several original timbers. The interior of the church can rival nature’s palette. It is ablaze with brightly coloured kneelers.

Clun goes wild

The annual celebrations begin in May with the Green Man Festival. Mummers perform in The Square where there is also a Sunday Market. Morris dancers and a Craft Fair also feature and Frostie, Queen of Cold challenges the Green Man in the Battle on the Bridge. If the Green Man doesn’t see her off, then there is no Summer in the Clun Valley.

In August, the Clun Carnival and Show incorporates a week long series of events and in October, the annual Beer Festival is a great crowd puller. “…the quietest places under the sun” People would travel miles to have the choice of walks that Clun has on its doorstep. Take Offa’s Dyke path for example. Many visitors will be more interested in the archaeology than in pitting themselves against the elements. The most interesting stretch is within easy reach. Llanfair Hill is the Dyke’s highest point and where it is “at its finest and most inspiring.” The Shropshire Way and the Jack Mytton Way, a long distance bridleway and cycle route, also pass through the town.

Another pipe opener is the scramble up to Bury Ditches, near Clunton. When severe storms blew down many trees, the Forestry Commission got the message and cleared the whole site, revealing one of the finest hill forts in Britain. You are rewarded for the climb with ramparts and ditches towering above the slopes and wonderful views from the interior. It looks as if Clun’s ancestors were determined to protect their peace and quiet.

Two contrasting Nature Reserves also lie on Clun’s doorstep. Rhos Fiddle, to the west covers 70 acres of natural grassland and bog on a shale base that was formed over 400 million years ago whilst, to the east lies Clunton Coppice, an all season woodland that is dominated by sessile oak. It has never been easier to escape the rush.

The new Clun Heritage Trail leaflet is available and can be downloaded by clicking here

Clun Facts

Tourist Information Point - Clun Garage, High Street.
Information on Clun - www.shropshiretourism.co.uk/clun, www.clun.org.uk
Clun Valley Beer Festival - www.cvbf.co.uk or Tel: 01588 640305
Green Man Festival - www.clun.org.uk/greenman or Tel: 01588 640305
Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural beauty - http://www.shropshirehills.info/
Clun Amblers - under 5 miles, gentle walks on the first and third Wednesday of the month. Contact Maurice or Dorothy Young on Tel: 01588 640846
Clun Ramblers - 5-7 mile walks every Tuesday from April to August.
Contact: Jenny Hodgson on Tel: 01588 640401. All day walks, third Thursdays of the month, April to August. Visitors are welcome.
Contact: Peter James on Tel: 01588 640027. For more information on Clun Ramblers' walks visit www.clun.org.uk/walking.htm

Clun Heritage Trail - an easy to carry guide to the places you want to see - leaflets at local shops can be downloaded by clicking here.

For more information about Shropshire, including Accommodation, Atrractions and Activities, visit Shropshire Tourism